[Week 3]

15th     Saw this morning for the first time Mirror Lake.  It was too late to see good reflections and the lake is rapidly filling up owing to deposit of sand by Tenaya Creek.  Prof spoke of it in connection with lakes as mere incidents in the life history of rivers sure to fill up in course of time.  He showed us traces of the terminal moraine of the glacier which once filled the Tenaya Fork valley.

          Went with Joe to Vernal, & Nevada falls and Cap of Liberty on foot.  Went to the immediate top and foot of each of them and studied their various phases and forms.  The Vernal is the more graceful and delicate being a clear leap of 350 feet in a deep cañon filled with trees and surrounded by fresh green grass and shrubbery.  Here we obtained a lovely rainbow effect in the spray.  Ascended the "Ladders" and went on to Nevada falls.  Its height is just double that of the other but as it is not a single clear leap its height is not so evident.  The fall is however a grand sight.  The whole is simply a mass of snow white foam and the arrows of water, comets I call them, shoot out in every direction, losing themselves in fine mist.  Again the whole stream spreads out over an immense flat "apron" down which it flows in innumerable wavelets churned into almost the consistency of cream which viewed close at hand give the effect of delicate lace of most intricate patterns.  We lay under a boulder not fifty feet from the base of the cataract and tho' nearly wet through by the driving spray, enjoyed it wonderfully.  After lunch at Snow's [?] for which by the way we paid, as campers 50 cts. while tourists paid 1.00 for the same, we went to the verge of the Nevada falls and looked down at the fall and the enormous cañon below.  At the top of Vernal falls there was a natural parapet to lean against making a secure station but at the Nevada the edge is perfectly bare and the slope downward so that it was only with some spice of danger that we got where we could see the whole height of the tossing, dashing spray.  The sight however was very fine and well rewarded us.

          From this point we ascended "Cap of Liberty", a bold peak, quite isolated from the surrounding cliffs, and the most striking object in the immediate vicinity.  There was no trail but the ascent was easy.  The view of South Dome was very fine, it being only about 1 mile away with its southern or rounded face toward us.  Outside of this the view was not remarkable, hardly worth the climb tho' it is the nearest view to be had of the "Little Yosemite" outside of Cloud's Rest.  We got home abaout 6: P.M. where a surprise awaited us in the shape of an invitation to dine at the Stoneman [?] House with Judge Garber and family.  We spent a very pleasant evening, creating quite a sensation by our rough clothes and jolly table.  The evening was spent in comparing notes of our travels.  As they left the next morning we could plan no trips in company.

16th All went to Glacier Point today, Joe and I on foot and the rest on horseback.  We went up a ledge right on the face of the cliff; there was no regular trail, but as there was only one way we could possibly get up, there was no danger of missing the trail.  It was fearfully steep but free from dust, and the outlook was always superb.  The last mile was right up the bed of a little mountain stream cold as ice, and as we stepped from rock to rock, it was like going up an enormous staircase so steep was the ascent.  The beauty of the creek with its tangled shrubbery, mossy boulders and lovely wildflowers, chief of which were the yellow, pink and red mimulus, the azalea and the syringa, diverted our attention however from the difficulties of the road.  We reached the top in just 2 hours, beating the horsemen by about 3/4 of an hour.  From here is obtained the best general view of the valley.  Beginning on the right you see in succession Mt. Star King, the Nevada & Vernal falls, and Cap of Liberty with high Sierras in the background; Mt. Broderick; Grizzly peak; South Dome; Cloud's Rest; Mt. Watkins; Tenaya and Cathedral Peaks; Basket and North Domes with Mt. Hoffman in the distance; Washington Column & Royal Arches.  We have now got to a point directly opposite as you look toward the north.  Continuing, there is seen Indian Cañon; Yosemite Peak and falls; the 3 Brothers capped by Eagle Peak; El Capitan and the cliffs of the Northern wall of the Merced cañon.  On the nearer side we could not see the individual points of interest.  But in the midst of all this magnificent setting the valley with its forests, meadows, the winding Merced and Mirror Lake lay spread in a bird's-eye view at our feet.  After a bountiful six bit lunch we went on to Sentinel Dome, about 1 mile away and 1000 ft. higher.  Here the view of the distant Sierra peaks widened.  Turning as before, and starting from Ostrander's Rocks near at hand we saw—Black Mt., Mt. Clark and the Obilisk Group; Mt. Ritter; Mt. Florence; Mt. Lyell; Mt. McClure; Unicorn, Cathedral and Tenaya Peaks, Mt. Conners and Mt. Hoffman.  The view of the immediate valley was not so fine as from below, but we saw in addition, Cathedral Rocks and Spires, and the Sentinel.

          At Glacier Point two large boulders project about 20 or 30 ft. over the edge of a precipice, almost 2000 ft. high and Ross took several groups of the party standing, sitting or lying on the extremities of these rocks.  I was surprised to find that leaning out over such an abyss gave me no sensation either of dizziness or fear.  We returned by the trail, and found it very long and dusty, finally bringing us into the valley about 2 1/2 miles down below the camp.  My choice, for the ascent on foot at least, would be to go up as we did, as, altho' more steep, it is shorter and less dusty than the trail. 

17th     Charlie Merrill (alias the Dude, alias the Snake-Charmer), Morgan (alias Rosie, alias the Buck) and self (alias Whiskers, alias the Late Mr. Palache, alias the great Unwashed) rose and ate breakfast at 2:30 A.M.(it consisted of coffee and cold flap-jacks), and rode down the valley by the light of the waning moon, this being our only chance of seeing the moonlight effect in Yo Semite.  Our singing (?) shouting and whooping

                    Ha!  Ha!  Ha!

                    California!

                    U!  C!  Berkelee!

                    Zip!  Boom!  Ah!

roused the campers and old inhabitants all along the road and we were asked many questions the next day, as to the purpose of our untimely jaunt.

          We rode up to Artist's Point on the Mariposa road where we had a superb view up the valley through the gates (El Capitan and Cathedral Rocks), and saw the sunrise in golden glory over the shoulder of El Capitan.  Then by the growing light we returned to the valley, and climbed on foot to the base of the Bridal Veil fall.  It was running very low but its clear fall of 600 ft. was very lovely and exquisite.  After gazing for some time at its dashing waters we returned and galoped [sic] down the valley along the Coulterville road as far as the Cascade waterfalls.  The road led right along the bank of the Merced, was shady and not very dusty and was flanked on either side by high cliffs making it most charming for a ride.  Turning, we came back on the south [sic] side of the valley under the foot of El Capitan and into the base of Yosemite fall which is now a mere trickle down the face of the cliff.  Thence on to camp which we reached very hungry and ready for lunch.  The P.M. we spent about camp, writing, mending and above all sleeping.  In the evening we strolled down to a camp below to enjoy the rarity of a camp fire.  All four of the party we visited are good singers, especially a Mr. Thomas and the evening passed very pleasantly with songs and choruses.

18th     Today Prof and Merrill went to Vernal and Nevada falls on horseback while Joe, Ross and self started out for the Illilouette or Tri-lool-ah-we-ack [?] fall on the South Fork to which there is no trail.  I rode up the old Vernal fall trail till it crossed the South Fork and then joined the walkers.  The road (?) was very rough--steep and over boulders, and Joe and I soon left "the Buck" so far behind that we thought he had given up the trip.  In fact he spent the whole day in the cañon and got to camp hungry and tired about 5.  Joe and I finally reached the falls which are very beautiful.  They are 300 or 400 ft. high and at the present stage of water more than half this height was composed of the delicate lacework effect spoken of at the Nevada.  The sun shone through the mass of spray at the top making it seem like a shower of diamonds.  As we returned we found a good many black raspberries and after eating all I could I picked some into a handkerchief to take home.  While so doing Joe got ahead of me and went on to join his father at Snow's for lunch.  Just as I reached the foot of the cañon I found to my dismay that my purse had fallen through a hole in my pockt, and I had the pleasant prospect of being "busted."  I spent the whole P.M. fruitlessly searching for what I never hoped to find; but, thanks to the drops of juice left at frequent intervals by my berries I defined my trail pretty clearly.  I got to camp late, miserable, tired and hungry, my feelings by no means sweetened, moreover by the aching of a festering finger which disturbed my sleep.

19th I spent the A.M. repairing the damages to clothing and shoes produced by the previous day's tramp and in the P.M. Joe and I started off to take a final search for my $30.  What was my surprise and joy to actually find it after not more than 3/4 of an hour's searching lying peacefully by the side of a big pine stump.  The raspberry stains were the only things, that enabled us to get the slightest clue as to where the purse was.  

          After our happy find we walked up to the Vernal, climbed out on a boulder into a driving spray which soon wet us through and saw a most beautiful rainbow, in the form of a perfect and entire circle.  The effect combined with the snowy mass of the waters and the deep rich green of the lawn of love grass which surrounds the fall all seen against the stern grey wall of granite over which the river dashes was beautiful beyond imagination or description.  On the return we found a large patch of raspberries, black and yellow and, having a can along, picked about two quarts.  They were the best thing we have had on the trip; indeed fruit never tasted so good.  I may as well speak now of our camp fare.  It is very good.  The bread—mixed by the Prof, and cooked by Joe—is better—absolutely —than any we have seen at the hotels in the valley.

Recipe

          To 1 cup (heaped) flour, add one good sized spoonful yeast powder and 1/2 spoonful of lard or butter.  Add salt and mix dry.  Then add water cautiously until of proper (?) stiffness, and knead well.  Roll thin and bake in a frying-pan, before a hot fire with slight heat beneath, the pan tipped up before the fire at such an angle, that the dough will not slide together.

          Rosie mixes the flap-jacks and he, Dude, and self take turns cooking them.  They are very good, my taste tending towards thin ones done brown and that of the others ranging upward to Joe who likes them 1/2 inch thick and almost doughy in the middle; 2 to 4 apiece each the diameter of the frying pan is the usual allowance.  Merrill generally cooks the rice and Ross the "spuds".  I am in general the butcher and cook most of the meat.  As to tea and coffee, each one takes a hand in their brewing and they vary from very excellent to very execrable—from extreme debility (weakness) to strength that makes them black.

          We take turns by pairs in washing up the dishes and Joe generally makes the fires, while he, Dude and especially Whiskers cut most of the wood.  Altogether we live very well and eat most enormously. 

20th This morning after breakfast Ross borrowed a wagon and harness from the Thomas party and hitched my horse, El Capitan and Ross's, Billy.  We drove to Tissaack [?] avenue, up to the Vernal Bridge, down by the Stoneman where we gave the yell and roused out the guests.  We went below Barnard's and then back on the other side of the valley getting back at 11 A.M., after an enjoyable ride.  The rest of the day all spent in camp, I washing up a lot of clothes and doing some sewing.  Later I chopped some oak wood for a camp fire next evening. 

21st Our first quite [sic] Sunday in camp on the trip.  All worked to get things in order for traveling on Monday.  Ross, Charley and self went to chapel, where the Episcopal service was read to eleven people.  The P.M. was spent similarly to the morning, I writing almost all the time.  Brought in my wood, and had a glorious campfire, the only one we have had in the valley.  A man named Tripp and his son spent the evening with us.  His younger son was lost on the way in, and had a fearful fall down the side of the valley from the Mariposa road.  He was not found till the following day.  His bruises and wounds are only now healing.  They are encamped next to us up the river and make their own way even carrying their own packs.