[May 30th - May 31st]

                                          The Dalles, Oregon

                                          Tuesday May 30

My dear:

     We have been lying here the most of the night, waiting to go down the great gorge of the Columbia River by daylight.  It is not yet seven o'clock and I am hastening to write a little before we start as I expect to ride down in the cab of the engine and wish to be prepared.  Yesterday was another of our full days—a day full of unexpected pleasures of varied sorts.  Instead of going straight on to Portland we made a great detour to the north, east and south which brought us to Lewiston on the Snake river from which point we descended 150 miles in a steamer to its junction with the Columbia.  But I must tell the doings in detail.  Sunday after leaving Boise City we rolled along thorugh the valley first of the Boise then of the Snake with here and there great fields of blue and gold—lupines and sunflowers.  At Huntingdon we entered Oregon, left the Snake and climbed out onto the upland through a tortuous canon.  As the sun set we ran swiftly downward through a glorious broad valley bounded on both sides by lofty mountains whose tops, newly whitened by snow, were partly involved in dark cloud masses.  The level floored Potter valley was 5 or 6 miles broad—a field of green.  The mountains called the Blue Range rose 5000 feet above us and were dark and mysterious.  As I sat at ease after dinner smoking a good cigar, reclining in a big easy chair and gazing out at the splendid panorama I said to Prof. Emerson I was fulfilling one of my wildest youthful dreams.  It was the counterpart in many ways of the valley of the Inn which traverses the Tyrol Alps as I have seen it several times.

     When it grew dark and my cigar was finished I joined the ladies and a number of men in the observation car and the twenty of us sang hymns for at least an hour.  They are all Episcopalians and the "sky pilot" as Dr. Morris calls him was there to help.  The singing was very bad but recalled pleasant memories of elsewhere.  In any case it was the first time I ever took part in even an approximation to a service in a railway car.  Meanwhile it began to rain and did so all night as we climbed mountain after mountain through the night.  We passed through Walla Walla going northward, woke up at Colfax, eat breakfast as we passed Pullman and at Moscow we were again in Idaho.  Here we changed from our luxurious train to a short one of another company for the run down to Lewiston.  It is a fine country for wheat growing on the upper plateau but the rivers run in great wild gorges and so travel is apt to be picturesque.  We went down the Potlatch river a clear rushing stream, through the reservation of the Nez Perce Indians many of whom we saw in their bright colored blankets.  By good fortune we found an obstruction in our way in this canon—a freight car off the track—and the hour's delay allowed us to scramble up the banks and gather armfuls of gorgeous wild flowers which were in their perfect spring beauty and refreshed by the still falling rain.  Others watched the wrecking train do its work and soon we were on again down to the Clearwater River which in turn we followed till at 1:30 P.M. we reached its junction with the Snake at Lewiston and took our steamer.  The Spokane was a new and rapid stern wheeler, and with the help of the five mile current we went down stream at a rate of nearly 25 miles an hour.  The clouds broke away as we went aboard and a fresh wind blew upstream.  It is a grand rushing river winding in long sweeping curves through its gigantic gorge.  The cliffs of basalt, black, brownish or grey are beautifully sculptured into innumerable fantastic forms.  But chiefly they rise in a series of great steps or benches receding as they rise and clothed with verdant grass so that despite the steepness many cattle and horses graze on them.  Up to 2000 feet the walls rise and the little tributary streams carve out great arcades or recesses with a tiny brook in the bottom.  Here and there is a strip of good land on the shore of the Snake and orchards luxuriate on such producing famous fruit.  It was a feast and field day for the geologists -

     We had lunch and again rushed out to enjoy the ever changing picture till the fierce afternon wind drove us in again.  At 6 P.M. we reached a landing place—Riparia—whither the train had returned and part of the party returned to it.  One or two of us scaled the cliffs while the steamer took coal, botanizing and enjoying the vast view.  Or I might as well say that I was the only one to get to the top although modesty ought to forbid.  On again—supper—another long promenade on the upper deck watching the sunset, and examining the railroad building on the left bank in which Mr. Harriman is interested and which he came especially to see.  Night fell and as I retreated to the cabin and got out my paper to write to you I was greeted by a call for a game of cards which I could not refuse and we had a jolly game of "Rounce" at which I was conspicuously unsuccessful and which I shall some day teach you.

     At ten our boat ran up to the bank of the river at Wallula, just before it empties into the Columbia and we landed, climbing up to the tracks on the bridge above where we were soon joined by the train and started on again on our way.  An ideal day's excursion perfectly carried.  That's what comes of travellling with railroad presidents who with the greatest ease imaginable arrange things seemingly most impossible. 

     I have a different address to give you at Seattle.

                     Care E.S. Curtis

                        709 2nd Avenue

                            Seattle.

     This instead of the General Delivery.  It will still be well to mention the Expedition on the address.  But it is certain that we will receive no mail till our return from Alaska.  We reach Seattle tomorrow—the 31st and sail the same day.

     We have had a lovely run down the Columbia—I rode 20 miles thro' the finest gorge in the engine cab with much pleasure and we made frequent short stops at the fish wheels and lovely cascades that lie along the road.  The flowers were in perfection and the botanists made the most of every moment and secured a rich haul.

     We are drawing into Portland and as we are to have a busy day or rather afternoon there I will close and send this off.  I have just remembered that it is Decoration Day—are you having your promised picnic?  I trust so and that you are well and happy.  Give my regards to any friends you may see and love to Jeannette and for yourself affectionate greetings from your lover

                                          Charlie.

                                          [Hotel stationery]

                                          The Portland

                                          Portland, Oregon

                                          May 30th  1899 

     Just a scribbled line to explain the enclosures.  The letters were brought to me here today by Mr. Keeler of Berkeley who is of our party.  I send them as they contain certain items of interest to you.  The clipping from the Portland paper gives an accurate and full account of our membership and if you keep it to consult later my references to various ones may be more intelligible.  I am looking forward to tomorrow as almost certainly bringing me a letter from you—the last I shall receive for 2 months.  It will be a weary waiting and I trust I shall not be compelled to keep you uninformed of my doings so long.  We have had dinner here at the Hotel and start in a few moemnts for the steamer that takes us to our train again some way down the Columbia River.  I will write again from Seattle—for now farewell with muchlove from your devoted

                                          Charlie

                                          [Telegram]

                                          Seattle Wn May 31-99

Miss Helen H. Markham

                     2 Buckingham Place, Cambridge

Sail today well thanks for letters love good bye.

                                          Charlie

                                          Seattle

                                           On board G.W. Elder

                                           May 31st 1899 - 3 P.M.

My dear -

     Your two letters were welcome indeed this morning, overflowing as they were with love and affection.  This is the hardest part of going off so far—that I am to hear from you so rarely or not atall.  Your message about Eben Barker came just in time.  Half an hour after receiving your letter I read in the paper that the 'Perry' was to sail this morning and as soon as I could I went down to see if she was still in the harbor.  I found she was to sail north at 11:30 so went out—found the young man who gave me a very pleasant reception and spent ten minutes talking with him and his brother officers.  They were all in the confusion of departure so we soon took ours, hoping to meet them again northward as they are bound our way.  Tell Mrs. Barker that her son looks splendidly and that I was sorry not to have a longer visit with him.

     I hope you have had my letters and that they have told you the truth that tho' I have indeed had much to occupy and interest me I have not for a moment forgotten or ceased to miss you.  You are in my thoughts always and when I think how much you, too, would enjoy this trip could you have been here, I wish again almost that I were not going rather than go thus alone.  And yet it is a wonderful opportunity which it offers not only to travel in comfort and see the country but to meet on equal terms a most interesting body of men of science and affairs such as are not often thrown thus together.

     Our quarters on the steamer are only less comfortable than were those on the train which we have left.  Each man has a stateroom to himself which I am very glad of as it gives me a privacy and independence I had hardly hoped for.  The steamer is newly refitted, quite large enough to hold our party in entire comfort and well equipped in every way.  Two launches will enable us to make frequent and easy landings.  The table as shown by our lunch today will be well served—and I see no reason why we should not be exceedingly comfortable in every way imaginable.  I know no more of the details of our plans than I did when I left N.Y.; indeed I doubt if they are fully formed but will develop as we proceed.  This does not worry me—I am simply prepared to do all I can in every sort of way that opportunity affords and to be satisfied with that without worrying about the future nor repining about the unaccomplished.  Certainly our experience thus far gives assurance that all will be done that can be for our comfort and convenienc as well as our interest and plesure.

     I got my money all right though my carelessness cost me five dollars—and I completed my outfit this morning.  I purchased a suit of what is called Makinaw—a sickly yellow sort of woolen garment said to be dry and warm and much used by lumbermen and such.  I hope it will do.  Otherwise I had nothing to get but odds and ends—a supply of tobacco and a hair-cut all of which are now accomplished.  We arrived here in the night and woke to find a dreary rainy morning overhead—so much gloomy weather on the coast forebodes a wet trip which in its turn will disappoint our photographic hopes.  But all may yet go well and at least I will hope for good luck in this regard as in others.

     The boat is filled with lovely roses sent to the Harrimans.  If there is anything they have not which they can want or think of I do not know what it is.  A big gramophone—a piano and one of these machines which play upon the piano, tow violins and several pianists and vocalists promise much music for better or worse.

     I am feeling very well indeed.  The lame back that resulted from my long ride of Saturday has quite vanished and I feel like a fighting cock—so much for the promise of the voyage.

     I am more in hopes that I may receive at least one mail while we are away so do please continue to send me letters at intervals, imagining if need be that they are all coming straight to me without delay in Seattle.  If a mail should reach the steamer and nothing in it from you I should be sad indeed.  The last address given is all right.  Curtis will forward if there is any opportunity.  On my part I promise you I will write every day and send whenever I possibly can which will I hope be at least three or four times.

     I am sorry you are not certain of having a good visit with Alice but feel sure she will come after all.  Give her my love when you write her again.  Do not work too hard over the "Room" and leave some of the money for me to help spend!!  I must send this so for now good-bye.  A thousand kisses such as letters can bear—would they were real ones!—a thousand times "I love you" and believe and know that I miss you always and think of you constantly.  Love to Jeanette and to yourself. 

                          Lovingly

                                          Charlie